Portrait of an LBX

Jour 96 (26/12/09)

Quzhou(衢州)-Baishizhen(白石镇)

Province du Zhejiang(浙江省)

-env. 60km-

Ce matin, nous ne nous levons pas trop tôt: 10h, et goûtons ce mystérieux fruit appelé « ramboutan », que j’ai acheté l’avant-veille. Et c’est en fait pas mal. Cela a un peu le même goût que le litchi, en plus chiant à éplucher.

Lorsque nous quittons l’hôtel, il est déjà trop tard pour des baozi. Nous prenons donc directement un déjeuner dans un resto. Avant de repartir, nous avons la chance d’échanger quelque mots avec un lbx, qui vient nous parler de tout et de rien, sur la Chine et les pays étrangers. Il nous fait un parallèle particulier entre la statut de paysan en Chine et celui de Noir aux États-Unis. “你们美国的总统是黑人。我们总统原来也是农民。” (« Votre Président aux États-Unis est un Noir. Nous aussi, notre Président était un paysan. »). Quelques minutes plus tard, il nous explique ce que nous savons depuis longtemps: en Chine, il est interdit de critiquer les dirigeants. Et c’était bien sûr bien pire pendant la Révolution Culturelle. Tout le monde avait un portrait ou un poster de Mao chez lui, et devait l’entretenir. Certaines personnes ayant malencontreusement abîmé le portrait du sauveur en le nettoyant ou ayant laisser les souris faire un trou sur son visage, étaient punies et emprisonnées. Mais la Révolution Culturelle, nous dit-il, n’a pas été que mauvaise: “文革也有它的好处。它教训了一些人。” (« La Révolution Culturelle a eu ses bons côtés. Elle a donné une leçon à certaines personnes. »). Tiens donc? C’est un peu comme s’il avait dit: « Le viol des mineurs a ses bons côtés. Il apprend l’amour aux jeunes filles! » ou encore « La Shoah a eu ses bons côtés. Parmi les victimes juives, certaines fraudaient le fisc! ».

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Jour 94 (24/12/09)

Quzhou(衢州)

Province du Zhejiang(浙江省)

Tous un peu fatigués, ce n’est qu’en fin d’après-midi que nous sortons de nos couettes. Evan appelle le lbx fabricant d’avions qui ne sera libre qu’en fin d’après-midi. Après avoir pris un excellent déjeuner accompagné d’un mauvais vin jaune, lavé nos fringues et étendu nos tentes encore humides, nous allons passer tout l’après-midi dans un café wifi.

Lampe de secours anti-incendie. Traduction en anglais: FIRE FIGHTING JURY EXCITER LAMP (mot-à-mot: LAMPE EXCITEUSE DE JURY POUR COMBATTRE LES INCENDIES)

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By Evan

A smiling Xu Bin stands next to his fourth-generation gyroplane, by Andy

I first became acquainted with the legend of the LBX who built his own flying machine about two years ago when a friend sent me a link to this viral video on Youku. I was blown away at the time but hadn’t given any thought to the feat — or any of the other LBX-built flying jalopies popping up on the internet — until Andy and I got a chance tip from our Free More News interviewer, Lu Junting. Responding to my personal interest in aviation, she told us she had followed for a story — and more importantly knew how to contact — the nongcun Leonardo of web fame: Xu Bin (徐斌). Armed with his general location, Quzhou city in southwestern Zhejiang province, and his cell phone number, we made plans to stop in on our way west to Jiangxi.

A few days before arrival in Quzhou, I called and arranged a meeting. Xu sounded understandably confused on the phone — “You’re three foreigners… riding bikes… around China… and you want to talk to me…?” — but in the end all was arranged. Once our injured teammate/photographer Andy had bused into town to rejoin us, we set our meeting on the night of Christmas Eve.

As promised, he was waiting for us in the new economic zone way outside the city center, looking even more confused than he had sounded on the phone to see three scraggly bearded foreigners piling out of a cab to see him. All the same, he transferred us into his little Toyota sedan parked in the courtyard of his family’s hotel next door and drove us to a fish restaurant he knew around the corner. Once in, the 35 year old Bin, about 5′4″ and weighing maybe 120 pounds soaking wet, finally asked what we were up to. He betrayed a glimmer of disappointment upon learning that we were not in fact foreign aviation experts, the same disappointment he expressed later to find out that we Americans haven’t quite achieved Jetson’s-like frequency of personal aircraft ownership. (more…)

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By Evan

First and foremost, I’d like to wish everybody who cares a Merry Christmas. As I write this post on December 25th in the Sun Party cafe of Quzhou, I am physically surrounded by cheap Chinese renditions of Christmas paraphernalia and stereos blaring a strange holiday music mix of about ten songs on endless repeat, but as for the rest of the world outside the window, today remains just another day in a big, polluted, frantic urban mess. In a way I’m relieved that the commercial nightmare back home snuck up on us without my realizing it.

Back to the blog, here goes a review of our activities since last I updated. Before leaving Jingning, I stumbled across a She clothing shop all done up in quasi-traditional wooden motifs outside and was culturally compelled to enter. In the store the two young She girls working the floor explained to me that the She people’s traditional symbol is the phoenix, and let me tell you, they put it on everything. The shop, they told me, is one of a very few in the whole world that produces traditional She wardrobes (most She now dress the same as their Han counterparts, i.e. neo-modern tacky for youth or standard black LBX garb for the older generation). Apparently they even sell some outfits to overseas Chinese restaurants as uniforms — cool. Upon request, I got a tour of the upstairs workroom, where I had a funny conversation with the head seamstress. “The phoenix is the symbol of us, the She people. (凤凰是我们畲族的吉祥物),” she told me. Oh, you’re a She as well, I asked. “Well, no, but I know a lot about that sort of thing.” Oh you silly poser Han! At the end, I wanted to pick up one of their really cool shirts, but realizing it impractical to lug around for the rest of the year, I compromised and had a phoenix sewed onto my Under Armor shirt — now equally sweat-wicking and auspicious! (more…)

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