Aug
27
2010
1

Photo: Spectacular Campsite

After a horrendous climb, the newly expanded crew, including my girlfriend Devi, my dad and his girlfriend Ellen, set up camp in the green mountains well before sunset. We were worried that a nasty storm on the horizon would soak us, but it never materialized, and we spent a great first evening on the road with a bottle of Talisker 10-year scotch whisky from duty free. There's a mystery member to our crew in this picture: a Tibetan herder who sat down and watched us talk, eat and drink for more than an hour, turning down our offers of food and drink.

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Aug
26
2010
0

Photo: Resevoir Grazing

A herder takes his sheep and goats to graze by Goat Gorge (羊峽) in Qinghai.

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Aug
25
2010
0

Photo: Crowded Well


Thirsty sheep and goats crowd a watering well in Qinghai.

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Aug
24
2010
0

Photo: Breaking the Horse

A Tibetan rider gives his horse a good whack to the neck after getting thrown in a village horse race in Qinghai.

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Aug
23
2010
0

Photo: Waiting to Race

A Tibetan man waits to race his horse bareback in a village horserace in Qinghai.

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Aug
23
2010
2

Riding on the Heavenly Road (天路)

By Evan

黃昏我站在高高的山岡
At dusk I stand on a tall mountain
看那鐵路修到我家鄉
And see the railroad that has been built to my homeland
一條條巨龍翻山越嶺
Huge dragon after huge dragon cross the mountains
為雪域高原送來安康
Bringing peace and health to the snowy plateau
那是一條神奇的天路哎
It is a miraculous heavenly road
把人間的溫暖送到邊疆
Bringing the warmth of the human world to the frontier
從此山不再高路不再漫長
From now on, the mountains are no longer high, and the road is no longer endless
各族兒女歡聚一堂
The sons and daughters of every race joyously assemble under the same roof

The plateau, a place not easily forgotten, by Andy

The preceding is an excerpt from the song Heavenly Road (天路), a song sung in Chinese set to Tibetan style music about the Beijing-Lhasa railway. It is likely the current most popular propaganda song in China (by far surpassing Dao Lang’s “Salaam Chairman Mao”), and also the single song I hate most in the world. I hate it so because unfortunately I used to be pretty into it, owing to the frequency with which I heard it, until the one day I bothered to pay attention to the lyrics, which I’ve pasted in totality at the bottom of this post for the curious. Aside from the fact that it’s hilariously ridiculous to think that prop-pop is actually an acceptable art form in China, the song’s popularity highlights the attitudes most Chinese have toward Tibetans: that they are griping benefactors of the goodness of the Han. I’ll go into this topic in depth in the post that continues this one.

Aside the hundreds of times I’ve heard the first lines of this song as a ring tone on this trip, I was graced to hear a group of vacationing cyclists from Liaoning wearing matching red long spandex uniforms singing it boisterously within eyesight of the miraculous railroad on the northern bank of Lake Qinghai. Beside the fact that these were some real chumps (like most of the vacationers making a circuit of the lake), their shameless rendition reminded me that we were on our way out of traditional Tibet and headed back into the hard world of Northern China. (more…)

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Aug
22
2010
0

Photo: Bareback

Tibetan men hold an impromptu horse race from the main road back to a village about two kilometers up a grassy slope.

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Aug
21
2010
0

Photo: Harsh Sun

Up on the Tibetan Plateau, the sun beats down with an unrelenting intensity that gives the Tibetans their rosy cheeks and rugged features, even at a young age.

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Aug
20
2010
0

Photo: Colorful Headscarf

Everyone wraps themselves up so much in these areas that sometimes it's hard to tell whether they are Tibetan or Hui or some other ethnic minority. This Tibetan woman in Zekog (澤庫縣) takes some pride in her colors!

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Aug
19
2010
2

Photo: Watermelon Fiend

Seen on the streets of Zekog (澤庫縣), Qinghai

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Written by Andy in: All,Andy | Tags: , , , , , ,

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