Apr
03
2010
1

New York Times on the Jews of Kaifeng

One of our hosts in Kaifeng, Li Bo, in the group's community center.

By Andy

The New York Times today has an article on the Jews of Kaifeng, Henan province, with whom we spent some time, what seems like ages ago. The NYT piece includes some additional historical perspective than what’s available in Evan’s post on our visit (which continues to be one of the most popular posts on our site), including something that I believe we missed at the time, which is that Judaism is not one of China’s five officially recognized religions. The Jews are also not one of China’s officially recognized ethnic minorities, something we did touch on when we were there, but neglected to elaborate on in our post. The Kaifeng Jews, therefore, do not officially exist.

Overall, I’d say that with the exception of the NYT reporter getting to spend Passover with the community in Kaifeng, we had a more intimate and interesting experience with the Li family.

It is interesting to contrast one passage of the NYT piece with our own:

From the New York Times:

On Friday evening, after buying some bread from a Muslim street stand, Ms. Guo took Mr. Audan and me into a half-completed shopping center. She marched purposefully around several corners, past closed shops, to a second-floor balcony of empty stores. Smoggy daylight was waning, but through a curtain in one of the shops came the distinct yellow glow of candles. An Israeli flag was just visible through the glass door. And inside, around a simple gray table, sat a dozen people bowed before ritual books in both Chinese and Hebrew, about to begin their Sabbath prayers. The men wore yarmulkes. The women were perched under a poster of the 10 Commandments, written in Chinese script, hung below photos of their ancestors.

And from Evan’s post, What We Least Expected: The Jewish Community of Kaifeng:

They led us five minutes through a commercial park full of one-room companies and little restaurants before paying an attendant to watch their electric bikes. We walked to the second floor where Li Bo unlocked and reeled up a rolling metal door, behind which was a treasure trove of surprises. Maybe 50 square meters in total, the little room contained some long tables, chairs, a menorah, a whiteboard full of Hebrew, several photos of old Kaifeng Jews, a bookshelf full of Hebrew books, and a big Israeli flag. It was in this, their community center, that Hebrew class was given on Fridays by an American Jewish study abroad student, Eric, and where holidays were collectively passed. The Hebrew on the board was lyrics to a song which Eric had recently taught his class. Li Bo informed us that between 10 to 20 Kaifeng Jewish students showed up for the weekly Hebrew classes, and around 30 show up for holidays. The price for the center? 3000 yuan annually, split among the community.

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Jul
09
2009
0

Photo: The Beards of Xinjiang

The Beards of Xinjiang

The man in this picture is a Uighur elder in the soon-to-be-demolished Old Town of Kashgar, a southern Silk Road city in Xinjiang. Less than a month after my girlfriend and I left Xinjiang, a truly horrendous scene has erupted there. I don't want to get into it on this site beyond saying that I would never have thought any of the people we met there -- Han, Uighur, Kazakh, Tajik, whoever -- capable of committing such acts of violence. But when you put anything under sufficient pressure, you never know exactly how it's going to explode. I had intended to post a lot more Xinjiang pictures here over the past few weeks, but I've been busy with my last month of work and getting the apartment packed up so I can move my life onto a bike for the next year or so. When we're finally on the road, Evan and I will undoubtedly meet many of China's 55 nationally recognized minorities. As we've seen in the past few days, tensions between some of those minority groups and the Han Chinese majority is often simmering just below the surface. Our goal will be to get beyond that in order understand those people for who they are beyond how they are defined by their relationships with other ethnic groups or the ruling government. I look forward to sharing those stories here.

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