Jul
10
2010
0

Photo: River Float

Two friends float down the Chishui River (赤水河) in Maotai (茅台鎮) with an inner tube. We were told that chemical factories are banned from operating on the river within 100 kilometers of Maotai.

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Jul
09
2010
0

Photo: Crate Carrying Coolie Couple

A husband and wife coolie (苦力) couple transports cases of baijiu across the out-of-commission bridge across Chishui River (赤水河) in Maotai (茅台鎮).

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Jul
08
2010
2

Photo: Coolies in the Heat

The only bridge in Maotai (茅台鎮) crossing the Chishui River (赤水河) was closed to vehicles for repair, so anything needing to be transported had to be done by hand. And I used to wonder why there were so many hunchbacked elderly in this country.

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Jul
07
2010
0

Photo: The Maotai Fitness Program

A worker at a baijiu factory shovels sorghum out of the steamer. The sugars are fermented in the grain in a pit, then dug out and distilled by steaming the grain. The process is repeated seven times. As nearly everyone in the town of Maotai (茅台镇) is employed either on the floor of a baijiu factory or as a coolie, there are a lot of ridiculously ripped people walking around.

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Jul
06
2010
0

Photo: Hard Day’s Work

A Bouyei (布依族) man in a long line of other Bouyei men and women hauls watermelons from the river to the road above. Many of these porters were in sandles, busted shoes, or barefoot. The watermelons sell for 2 yuan ($0.29) per kilogram in Guiyang.

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Jul
05
2010
1

Booze Biking: Maotai and Beyond (永”酒”牌單車:茅台南川一遊)

By Evan

*I’m way too lazy today to put the pictures straight into this post. See the Maotai pictures here and the first of Sichuan here.

It’s been awhile since my last substance update, so I’ll back up and explain a few things behind the title. First, after Kunming we picked up Aaron, our old buddy from Shanghai, who followed us just across the border with Guizhou on a creaky 20” wheel Dahon. He is now an official member of the USA-China Friendship Bicycling Team. Then we trimmed some of China’s most stunning landscapes, the kind of stuff that inspired landscape paintings (山水畫) like this for hundreds of years, right after taking Aaron through the most bland riding we’ve done in a while. Probably bad karma on his part. before arrival in Guiyang. In Guiyang, Andy R&R’ed in Shanghai while I stayed behind to see the USA lose to Ghana (crapola) and spend time with an interesting group of expats (another story for another time, but thanks to my new Nigerian friend Henry!). From Guiyang, we had to pick a route north into Sichuan, and fate again took a hand, placing the little town of Maotai smack in our way.

For those who’ve lived in China, Maotai (also known as Kweichow Moutai), home of China’s most celebrated liquor, requires no introduction. For everybody else, let me try to explain. In terms of local reputation and legacy, Maotai is to baijiu what Dom Perignon is to champagne. But PLEASE, PLEASE don’t take that to mean that we are lovers of baijiu, or that baijiu is a liquid which should be used — by reasonable people — for more than blowing fire as a party trick or sanitizing wounds. To journey to Maotai for the love of baijiu would be like visiting Abu Ghraib on an “experience the world’s most inhumane tortures” tour. In case you still don’t get it, the stuff blows, and I mean hard. It burns like hell and gives you wicked hangovers, but for reasons I’ll never understand, that hasn’t stopped the Chinese from enjoying it in copious quantities for thousands of years, making it on the strength of this country alone the world’s most consumed spirit. Honestly, China came out pretty well with its cuisine, its tea, its arts, etc. etc. Unfortunately, they got the short end of the alcohol stick with baijiu and huangjiu (黃酒, much much better than baijiu but still pretty gross) as their front runners. (more…)

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Jul
05
2010
0

Photo: Watermelon Porter

A Bouyei (布依族) man pauses from his work hauling watermelons from the boats to the road above.

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Jul
04
2010
0

Photo: Chainless Gang

Bouyei (布依族) women pass watermelons in a line from a boat to a truck, which will take the watermelons to Guiyang to be sold. I don't know why more of the trucks weren't down at the river like this one.

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Jul
03
2010
0

Photo: Someone’s Not Working

Bouyei (布依族) women unload a boat full of watermelon. The watermelons are brought downstream by boat from a Bouyei village with no road transport. There was only one guy around besides us who wasn't there for the watermelons. See if you can spot him.

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Jul
02
2010
0

Photo: Staring into the Abyss

A boy watches Bouyei (布依族) men and women carrying watermelons up from the river to be loaded onto trucks and sold in Guiyang.

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