May
29
2010
0

Day 241: Fubang to Xuelin 富邦到雪林之旅

By Andy

2010/05/21 — 47 km

Having arrived so late in Fubang the night before, we opt for a “natural wake-up” (自然醒) rather than the usual alarm. It’s the best night of sleep I’ve had in a week. We frequently wonder why we don’t get better sleep considering the physical trials we put ourselves through daily. The night before took it out of me physically, but I think the mental exertion involved in the snails-pace climb up 15 kilometers of cobblestone road alone in the dark jungle was what finally brought me to the point of true exhaustion and thus a good night’s sleep.

We walk down the street to what looks like the only restaurant in town for a breakfast of noodles, which Devi is already tiring of. Since Henan, baozi and jiaozi have been scarce, and breakfast has been noodles just about every day.

After breakfast, we leave behind the concrete road in Fubang for the cobblestones again. To my surprise, the mountain keeps going up! As if 15 km of climbing wasn’t enough! A kilometer later we reach our turnoff, just as the sky once again starts to look like it wants to pick a fight with us.

Waiting out one last bit of rain after lunch, by Andy

Our new road is cobblestone as well, when it’s not mud, and it quickly dashes my hopes and dreams of an easy descent for the first half of our ride. It also seems to fork into two directions every few kilometers, and we keep having to stop and wait for another passerby on a moped to make sure we stay on the right route. China doesn’t bother making signs for most things, probably because the roads are traveled almost exclusively by locals who have no use for signs. (more…)

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May
28
2010
0

Photo: Cheers!

In our evening in Xuelin (雪林鄉), we were treated to dinner by a group of teachers from the local elementary school. Two were ethnic Wa (佤族) while the other was Dai (傣族). As part of their local Wa drinking customs, one person toasts another by standing up and singing a rhythmic song while the others clap and sing along if they know the words. Then the "toaster" downs his glass, fills it up again and passes it on to the "toastee" (me), who then chooses another person to serenade and toast. Rinse, repeat. For our part, we sang whatever songs to which we could remember the lyrics, including "I Would Walk 500 Miles," "It's a Small World," "I Will Survive" and the Portrait of an LBX classic, "Sixteen Tons."

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May
26
2010
0

Photo: Taking in the Evening Scene

An elderly Wa (佤族) woman watches the evening goings-on in Xuelin (雪林鄉). A wedding was being held in the house across the street. We passed by three times and lingered but failed to garner an invitation.

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May
25
2010
0

Photo: Evening Walk

Two ethnic Wa sisters walk down the streets of Xuelin (雪林鄉).

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