Jul
29
2009
0

Photo: Camel Boy

Camel Boy

I'm not vigilant enough to be able to tell if this teen is Kazakh or Kyrgyz -- both seem to be prominent in the Lake Karakul region of Xinjiang in China's far northwest on the road to Pakistan. Regardless of their ethnic makeup, the locals at Lake Karakul are all extremely aggressive in trying to get money out of tourists, demanding money to look at the lake, camp in the area, stay in a yurt, and pretty much anything else you could possibly do. This particular young man was about to try to push a camel ride on us. The vibrant blue of Lake Karakul is in the background.

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Jul
21
2009
0

Photo: Uighur Schoolgirl

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Kashgar Old Town, Xinjiang

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Jul
19
2009
0

Photo: Universal Language

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The universal language of flirting -- Kashgar Old Town, Xinjiang

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Jul
17
2009
0

Photo: Kashgar Hot Pockets

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A Uighur boy sells fried pockets full of lamb in Kashgar's quickly vanishing old town.

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Jul
09
2009
0

Photo: The Beards of Xinjiang

The Beards of Xinjiang

The man in this picture is a Uighur elder in the soon-to-be-demolished Old Town of Kashgar, a southern Silk Road city in Xinjiang. Less than a month after my girlfriend and I left Xinjiang, a truly horrendous scene has erupted there. I don't want to get into it on this site beyond saying that I would never have thought any of the people we met there -- Han, Uighur, Kazakh, Tajik, whoever -- capable of committing such acts of violence. But when you put anything under sufficient pressure, you never know exactly how it's going to explode. I had intended to post a lot more Xinjiang pictures here over the past few weeks, but I've been busy with my last month of work and getting the apartment packed up so I can move my life onto a bike for the next year or so. When we're finally on the road, Evan and I will undoubtedly meet many of China's 55 nationally recognized minorities. As we've seen in the past few days, tensions between some of those minority groups and the Han Chinese majority is often simmering just below the surface. Our goal will be to get beyond that in order understand those people for who they are beyond how they are defined by their relationships with other ethnic groups or the ruling government. I look forward to sharing those stories here.

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Jul
01
2009
2

The Journey

What began as a weekend pastime has rapidly transformed into the foundations of an epic adventure. Beginning in September, this site’s authors, Andy and Evan, will set off on a year-plus tour of China by bicycle. The timeline and exact itinerary of our journey are thus far very tentative, and they are likely to remain that way. Our goal is not to complete a distance course in record time, but to immerse ourselves in the fabric of China and familiarize ourselves with its people in order to convey their stories on this site and elsewhere.

Over the course of our journey, we’ll be weaving between various landmarks as marker points, but the vast majority of our time will be spent in the countryside, where ‘real’ China still exists. Dense urban and manufacturing centers, while teeming with LBXes of all backgrounds, have largely been sucked dry of both values and culture. We plan to make a grand tour of historical China, departing and finishing in Beijing. From there we’ll cruise straight to the ocean before joining the Yellow River and exploring Henan, the cradle of Chinese civilization. From Henan we’ll split time between Anhui and Jiangsu provinces before rejoining the coast at Shanghai and probably taking a short breather with some friends. Then we’ll bolt inland again through Anhui and make a run back toward the ocean through Zhejiang, one of China’s major manufacturing provinces. Weather permitting, we’ll spend some time in Hubei and Hunan, dead in the center of sub-Yangtze China. Then we’ll skirt the coast down through Fujian before pushing into Guangdong, the wealthiest and most influential province in China, where a visa run to Hong Kong will probably be in order. From there we’ll start getting more ethnic as we head west to meander through Guangxi and Yunnan, provinces of mountains and minorities, cutting right against the borders of Vietnam and Burma before the return of summer when we’ll undertake the craziest leg of the trip: the climb up the Tibetan plateau through Sichuan and Qinghai (think “little Tibet”). After months of exploring wilderness and Tibetans, we’ll cross the Silk Road and skirt down to Lanzhou before tilting north again through the Muslim province of Ningxia and making a long run through Inner Mongolia and the deserts thereabout. Finally, we’ll venture south enough to cross the Great Wall and will continue north across some of the bleakest, driest stretches of Northern China before terminating again, roughly one year from our outset (God willing), in Beijing.

A Very Rough Map

A very rough idea of what our crazy trip may look like.

(more…)

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